Daringness has been steadily leaking over from runway fashion to accessible fashion. These trends that were once so inconceivable are now giving long awaited character and opportunity to the mainstream. We can see more than ever now the versatility of men’s fashion and the fall ranges we’ve seen provide perfect evidence of that. Casual and formal clothes have been given a vast collection of meanings and narrative is brought back into fashion. (image: Linus Weber & Golo Fischer Star in Stefan Steiner Fall Winter 2016 Campaign)
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Michael Pitt for Rag & Bone
Rag and Bone
Rag and Bone have taken fall to the battlefield this year. The structure of the silhouettes and shadowy shades of green create the image of severity with sudden strikes of colour accentuating a theme of intensity. It’s fascinating to see how uniform such a variety of materials can be made to be. They have absolutely stayed true to their New York aesthetic, combining familiar street styles with creative tailoring and innovative variations in form. Like New York, the collection features mostly shadow with splashes of colour that don’t brighten the range as much as they emphasise the darkness.
Theory’s fall collection is distinctly metropolitan, seemingly playing on classic interpretations of the metropolitan male. The ensembles are practical, versatile and flattering. Most of the pieces are simple and versatile, easily coordinated with other items in the collection, while also having small elements and details to them that make them distinctive. The most notable element of the collection is the tailoring. The clothes mould to the wearer’s form almost as tightly as wetsuits, relying on model to supply to shape and silhouette. The coats, however, are an exception. The wool retains a structured shape while also being malleable. The collection is beautiful combining of vintage and modern casual and a bringing together of past and future..
Greg Lauren Fall 2016
Greg Lauren’s menswear fall range just escaped from a cinematic epic. Each ensemble has a character and story to it and, as a whole, the range has a theme of heroes in progress. The hoodie is reconstructed into a cape, a jacket, or a piece of armour. It has elements of fantasy, industrial England and post-apocalyptic survival. Each item is daring and adventurous in its own way, testing the traditions of fashion and redefining its purpose. The fabrics are flexible, textured and worn while the items seem to have been constructed, deconstructed and then reconstructed to create a sense of characters’ lives being worn into the clothes.
David Hart’s range has one distinct theme: music. More specifically, the range is an index of iconic jazz, blues and ‘rock n roll’ characters. The range is vintage and distinctive in style but still manages to attain a modern feel. It collects the fashion from the 40s all the way up to the 90s and the pieces look strangely familiar while also being brand new. The biggest difference between the pieces is the colours and patterns. The same shape of jacket has been given so many variations that you can scarcely recognise their similarities. The patterns and prints are distinctly vintage, but the colours aren’t quite.