Fashion brand GmbH presented their Fall Winter 2022.23 Talisman Menswear Collection on January 21st, during the recently finished Paris Fashion Week. For this season designers Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby explore the brand’s relationship with religion, couture and sex. The collection was inspired by an Ottoman soldiers undergarments from the 16th century: The silk robes covered by hand painted protective calligraphy. GmbH explores fashion as a shield, the physical and spiritual protection.
“Another trace is our study of the codes of formal and religious dressing. Kaftans and tunics paired with thigh high boots become dresses when worn without trousers, exposing a part of flesh on the upper thigh. The faux astrakhan is from memories of older family members, a common material in many Muslim countries. So were the taqiyah, the knitted skull cap, also known as kufi, topi or takke depending on region. Other traditional codes of dressing came from the studies of details of mid-century haute couture. Exaggerated collars and cuffs in synthetic fur, exposed backs as well as jewellery designed by Nhat-Vu Dang using a mixture of stones and reclaimed jewellery plated in silver and gold.” – from GmbH