GmbH presented its Fall Winter 2026 collection during Intervention at Berlin Fashion Week, grounding the show in a political and cultural climate shaped by fear, power, and violence. The collection takes its starting point from a term that entered German public discourse earlier this winter: Friedensangst, meaning fear of peace. The word described anxiety within the boardroom of Germany’s largest arms manufacturer, where executives reacted to the possibility of peace in Ukraine and the effect such an outcome could have on stock value. The reference exposes an economic logic that depends on perpetual conflict and detachment from human consequence.
FALL WINTER 2026.27 COLLECTIONS
Since its founding in 2016, GmbH has defined its work through refusal to remain silent in the face of global atrocities. Approaching a decade as a brand, the designers frame fashion as a space shaped by emotional extremes. Anger, grief, paralysis, and the urge to react physically all enter their process. The Fall Winter 2026 collection continues this approach, seeking forms of beauty within darkness while confronting systems sustained by violence and fear.
The show marked GmbH’s fourth presentation in Berlin, the city the brand identifies as home. For this season, the designers looked back to their own beginnings, when music and club culture informed their practice. That return led them to the experimental music scene in Berlin and Germany during the early 1980s, a period defined by industrial and synth sound. Groups such as DAF and Einstürzende Neubauten shaped this reference point, alongside the presence of Blixa Bargeld as a defining figure within that movement. The collection reflects a Berlin that existed before the designers’ time, when counterculture and utopian thinking held visible space.
As the designers describe the values of the Berlin they know as under threat from greed and repression, the collection frames fashion as an act of resistance. Personal memory and historical reference intersect within the garments, bringing forward a period when the city functioned as a site of cultural opposition. Music served as a constant anchor during the design process, alongside four poems that guided rhythm, tone, and emotional structure throughout development.
Within GmbH’s vocabulary, clothing operates as a system of codes and signifiers of belonging. The Fall Winter 2026 collection continues this approach, presenting garments as markers of shared values and collective awareness. The title Doppelgänger frames the collection as a warning, addressing a present shaped by men who seek dominance through violence and fear. Through this framing, the collection urges vigilance against repeating historical failures and accepting systems built on subjugation.
