Niccolò Pasqualetti showed the SS26 men’s collection on June 19th at Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, during Pitti Uomo 108. Across 33 looks, the designer shifted focus away from rigid categories and toward clothing that reacts to the rhythm of a day, pieces that can move, layer, fall apart, and reconfigure.
The collection starts with garments rooted in structure, military shapes, tailored cuts, workwear references, and athletic details. Pasqualetti doesn’t treat these as complete ideas but as parts open to change. Swimwear lines break through utility pants, sheer shirts expose athletic underlayers, and raw wool appears next to thin, translucent cotton. Each look lets contrast stay unresolved.
This mix of texture and form carries through the materials. Denim holds its frame while stitched patterns interrupt it. Cotton appears speckled like paint, while linen and silk sit against each other with noticeable tension. Laser-cut suede suggests camouflage without imitating it. Pasqualetti places materials to create contrast in weight and feel, hard next to soft, opaque beside sheer.
Garment structures shift as well. Trousers open at the lower leg, shorts stretch out into skirt-like volumes, and shirts detach from the shoulder or twist at the waist. Capes fall in folds, some shaped by draping, others sliced into structured forms. Pasqualetti uses asymmetry and exposure to pull garments away from fixed silhouettes.
Jewellery in the collection avoids decoration. Instead, it repeats units that link into chains or clusters. These pieces build form the way fabric does, by looping, joining, and wrapping. They connect with the clothes not as accessories but as extensions of the design.
Pasqualetti doesn’t assign clear roles to these garments. The looks don’t depend on gender, formality, or a time of day. Instead, they offer options. One item may read as structured until it slips, folds, or parts. A look may feel rigid until the fabric shifts. Each piece stays open to reinterpretation, not through dramatic transformation, but through movement, tension, and repetition.
