Designer Jonny Johansson presented ACNE STUDIOS Spring Summer 2022 Menswear Collection. The digital loookbook was shoot at the Marenia hostel in the village of Guéthary on the Atlantic coast. This is the most personal collection for the designer, because of lockdown, he’d had more time for dreaming, and for getting closer to making clothes.
As well as shooting this collection at the Marienia, Johansson literally replicated some aspects of it within the garments here; the pattern of a red-buttoned tunic was inspired by bedclothes, and there were flashes of hydrangea to reflect the bursts of color in the garden and an emphasis on burnished brown tones that reflected the paneling of the structure. Less literally, he also worked to recreate that melting-pot vibe by placing hippieish knits and tie-dyes against Lurex-licked suiting against seditiously spirited berets against sexy-boy flares. The styling, less hectically try-hard than at some past Acne shows, nicely played up the creative unorthodoxy Johansson was working to evoke along with his parodically subversive reworking of military vintage. Especially covetable pieces to this eye included a paneling brown suede jacket fringed with black crochet work; a floral-print overdyed shirt in purple with four contrasting patch pockets in blue; some sort of gardener’s jodhpurs worn north of nearly knee-highs; T-shirt-caftan combos with gentle Rabin Huissen prints; and a suit in a croc pattern intended as mock in both senses.