Anthony Vaccarello unveiled the Saint Laurent Men’s Fall Winter 2025 collection on January 28, presenting a lineup that thrives on contrast. The collection reflects the house’s signature interplay between restraint and provocation, precision and fluidity. Vaccarello draws from Yves Saint Laurent’s archival tailoring while infusing a darker, more sensual energy inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe. The result is a wardrobe where sharp tailoring meets unexpected elements, reinforcing the brand’s legacy of challenging conventions.
FALL WINTER 2025.26 COLLECTIONS
This season’s tailoring is sharply defined, yet adaptable in attitude. Double-breasted jackets feature sculpted shoulders and controlled proportions, maintaining a structured aesthetic that elongates the figure. At the other extreme, feather-trimmed coats introduce movement and softness, offering a striking counterpoint to the more rigid elements.
The tension between fitted and voluminous shapes runs throughout the collection. Slim trousers balance expansive outerwear, ensuring a sense of controlled contrast. Coats are engineered with elongated cuts, reinforcing the verticality of the looks while maintaining a sense of ease.
Vaccarello leans into texture as a tool for contrast, pairing matte wool with sleek leather to heighten visual impact. The introduction of feathers as a trim adds an element of surprise, subverting the expectation of traditionally masculine outerwear. Silk shirting layered beneath heavier pieces softens the overall structure, creating an interplay between rigidity and fluidity.
Leather wader-style boots bring a bold, equestrian-inspired element into the mix, disrupting the perception of classic tailoring. Their presence shifts the tone of even the most refined pieces, reinforcing the collection’s exploration of duality.
Saint Laurent’s heritage informs the collection, with nods to Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche and haute couture archives. However, Vaccarello introduces a more subversive angle, drawing inspiration from Robert Mapplethorpe’s provocative aesthetic. The tension between refinement and sensuality is unmistakable, playing out in the styling and material choices.
Pairing sharply cut coats with unexpected accessories and fluid fabrics, Vaccarello challenges traditional menswear norms. The collection blurs the lines between precision and indulgence, reinforcing Saint Laurent’s ongoing dialogue with gender, power, and self-expression.
The show’s setting at Bourse de Commerce reflects the same contrasts found in the garments. The cool, minimalist architecture of the space is interrupted by weathered parquet flooring and grand chandeliers, reminiscent of the Intercontinental Hotel’s historic ballroom, where Saint Laurent’s haute couture presentations took place from 1975 to 2001. This interplay between stark modernity and old-world opulence mirrors the collection’s thematic tension.
Saint Laurent Men’s Winter 2025 refines the concept of duality, balancing precision with fluidity, and structure with movement. Vaccarello’s approach maintains the sharpness of classic tailoring while introducing subversive elements that challenge tradition. Through material contrasts, unexpected proportions, and deliberate styling, the collection reinforces the house’s reputation for redefining elegance on its own terms.
