The Courrèges Fall/Winter 2024 Men’s, curated by Nicolas Di Felice is characterized by the precision of tailored shapes and the use of impeccable fabrics, through which Di Felice explores sensual derivations and formal opportunities for bodily exposure. The collection represents a natural evolution of his past work, featuring a diverse cast of characters that provide insight into his eclectic visual repertoire, ranging from the perverse bourgeoisie and wayward sailors to leather-clad individuals and their post-punk counterparts. Each archetype reflects the duality, which balances precision and subversion, drawing on both the House’s heritage and Di Felice’s personal collection of underground fetishes. This collection is a study in the public expression of private desires.
The collection opens with the sharply defined outlines of a Prince-of-Wales suit coat and pencil skirt, designed to zip and unzip according to the wearer’s preference. Key details from FW’23, such as open slit sleeves and a jetted pocket placed under the navel, reappear, offering a risqué twist on practicality. The season’s styles embrace a unisex approach, with convertible jersey tanks, revamped vinyl and crepe classics, contemporary volumes, and various versions of the Holy Bag, a new House classic first seen in the SS’24 runway show. As the narrative progresses, drop-front pants evoke the image of Querelle-like sailors, intertwining fantasies of uniformed boys cruising the night. The silhouettes of the season express a desire for tactile experiences and unrestrained freedom. Polo shirts are styled to drape openly over the shoulders, signaling relaxed intentions, while deep plunging necklines and slashed bodices invite fleeting encounters. A fur-lined windbreaker enhances the collection’s sensory appeal, with shapes that ritualize the act of disrobing and exposing oneself.
The collection also features knitted balaclavas from the 1960s House archives and corn-based latex garments that envelop the body in glistening light, hinting at a secretive history of sexual liberation. This theme is further explored through the metallic-framed, horizontally slashed garments, which evoke a longing gaze seeking more. The collection, echoing the words of Genet, “Violence is a calm that disturbs you,” invites us to step out of our comfort zones and embrace the warmth of human connection.