Paris-based designer Hed Mayner presented his Fall Winter 2022.23 collection during the ongoing Paris Fashion Week. Unlike his previous collections that take the inspiration from designer’s obsession with silhouette, there is something more direct in his latest offering.
The shoulder is kind of going wide wide wide wide wide wide wide to the side.
– Hed Mayner
The collection features XL double-breasted fully tailored coats with the hacked away front lapels, XXL pants held up on the waist, and padded scarves that lengthen the body. The neck becomes elongated, the shoulder exaggerated, creating something unbalanced on the body. The mood is somewhere between buoyant and wistful.
The proportions of a fine grey chalk stripe double-breasted blazer are capacious, the shoulders slump down the body as if it had been discovered in a padlocked late 19 th century gentleman’s closet. It is worn with a slim trouser that skims into a buckled leather sandal, which turns up at the toe. Where before the process was about shape and fabric, Mayner adds texture. Textiles are aged, merino knitwear is destroyed, cottons are coated or stonewashed. Suiting is in gabardine or British wool with pinstripe or check. Shirting is made from sleeve lining fabrics. Faux leather has a lustre. Washed and quilted, a meadowy Liberty print named ‘Poppy and Daisy’ dating back to the 1910s channels a languid optimism. Oversized, immense clothes offer protection from interference; there is a space between the wearer’s body, the clothes, and us, the onlooker. Mayner’s AW22 has an aura of suspended, cosseted elegance. – from Hed Mayner.