UNDERCOVER returns with its Men’s Resort 2026 collection, pulling from the codes Jun Takahashi has shaped since founding the brand in 1993. This season, Takahashi narrows in on familiar garments and gives them new structure through small changes. The tailoring doesn’t follow traditional rules, suits unfold with uneven cuts, proportions feel intentionally askew, and pieces settle into shape through wear rather than first glance.
One clear thread runs through the collection: the reinterpretation of vintage pajama dressing. Shirts, blazers, and trousers take on a relaxed outline, but never fall apart. Mandarin collars and knotted fastenings replace stiff buttons, and the cuts stay loose without losing edge. Fabric choice and control over line give the pieces a steady rhythm.
Lightweight cargo pants play another key role. Cut in nylon, they carry functional design but remove the stiffness often tied to utilitarian styles. These trousers breathe and move. Their softness doesn’t undercut purpose, it shifts the focus to motion and ease, fitting cleanly into UNDERCOVER’s approach to contradiction.
Throughout, the collection keeps its distance from decoration. Oversized cardigans, washed shirts, and long trousers appear in grounded colors, deep red, olive, beige, white, and black. Texture takes the lead. Graphic touches exist, a stitched figure, a patch, a handwritten phrase.
Takahashi keeps theatrical gestures under control. Wide sleeves, dropped shoulders, and layered shirts suggest scale, while the actual designs remain measured. The balance doesn’t rely on contrast, it comes from internal shifts in shape and weight.
Footwear stays consistent, with black slippers anchoring each look. Knitwear shows wear through soft distressing. Shorts appear long and wide, worn with jackets that avoid rigidity.
The dry pink setting, used as a visual frame for the lookbook, brings in a muted contrast. The restrained palette and soft silhouettes take on dimension in the environment, without slipping into visual excess.
UNDERCOVER’s Resort 2026 menswear collection works through softness, proportion, and restraint. Takahashi shifts the focus away from styling tricks and redirects it to how clothes move, fall, and shape themselves through use.
