ZEGNA’s Spring Summer 2026 collection returns to the founding vision of Ermenegildo Zegna, who in 1910 saw fashion as a system rooted in environment and human connection. The Oasi Collection, shaped by Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori, pushes this philosophy forward by allowing clothing to evolve through wear, space, and experience.
View this post on Instagram
Sartori brought the collection to life at the Dubai Opera, which transformed into Villa ZEGNA for the occasion. The show unfolded on sand under swaying palms, accompanied by a live performance curated by James Blake. The set collapsed borders between Trivero and the desert, casting the garments against a context that made them feel used, functional, and real.
Each piece arrived textured by intention. Sartori washed, crinkled, and faded the fabrics to suggest garments shaped by weather and time. Jackets slouched with ease, slippers slipped off the heel, and the styling invited movement. A reference photo guided much of this thinking, a chair draped with clothes, left behind in a casual moment. For Sartori, that image captured the honest aftermath of getting dressed, revealing how the wearer finishes what the designer starts.
Sartori reworked staples like the Il Conte jacket with generous proportions. Nehru shirts and longline shirting became outer layers, while shorts paired effortlessly under coats or cropped jackets. Pajama-stripe suits in featherweight fabrics drifted across the stage. Leather appeared in softer forms, used for coats and jackets that lost all rigidity. Anoraks took on new identities, arriving in both knit and woven versions.
New silhouettes added depth to the collection. Sartori offered field jackets, hybrid cardigans, and low-pocket blazers to expand the brand’s library of shapes. Printed short sets gave a casual offset to the tailoring, while accessories supported the relaxed sensibility. Soft-soled moccasins, slipper-like footwear, oversized eyewear, and large bags grounded the looks without drawing too much attention.
Color played a major role in the atmosphere of the show. Sartori used a base of bleached neutrals, bianco Oasi, mastice, burro di montagna, caligine, and corda. These tones set the foundation for more vivid additions, such as olio, cognac, liquore, felce, ciclamino, magnolia, and anemone. Deeper shades like fumo, ardesia lavato, and barolo added density to the palette.
Fabrics shifted between precision and experimentation. Sartori included wool-silk-linen summer Shetland, silk poplin, cotton-silk blends, and jacquard-woven linen-wool. He brought new textures into play: sanded hemp, sail canvas poplin, Sea Island cotton, and hand-spun silk. Material hybrids like cotton-paper-wool toweling and knitted leather pushed tactility forward. Even jacquard leather found space in the collection, adding visual rhythm to surfaces already shaped by wear.
