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UNDERCOVER “but beautiful 4.5…” SS26 Collection

Wide denim, soft tailoring, and repeated shapes guide UNDERCOVER’s latest chapter of “but beautiful.”

UNDERCOVER “but beautiful 4.5…” Spring Summer 2026
Courtesy of UNDERCOVER

Jun Takahashi introduced “but beautiful 4.5…” as the SS26 chapter of UNDERCOVER ongoing exploration into form, restraint, and emotional tone. The collection built on themes first established in the Fall Winter 2025.26 women’s show but shifted toward clarity. Instead of leaning on heavy distortion or asymmetry, Takahashi refined the approach, removing visual noise and focusing on balance.

Courtesy of UNDERCOVER

The collection still carried traces of disruption, but the cuts and finishes felt more measured. Shape, texture, and composition guided the direction. Tailored jackets brought structure. Trousers kept their volume but gained sharpness in detail. Denim pieces stood out for their wide silhouettes, stitched seams, and vertical text placement. They offered weight and rhythm without pulling attention away from the overall line.

Knitwear and shirting helped steady the collection. Garments remained loose. Collars stayed neat, and layering followed a relaxed structure. Accessories added texture without drawing focus. The styling introduced small shifts, shorter hems, uneven overlaps, off-kilter combinations. These details shaped the clothes without changing their function.

Courtesy of UNDERCOVER
UNDERCOVER “but beautiful 4.5…” Spring Summer 2026
Courtesy of UNDERCOVER

Takahashi worked through repetition. Ribbed hats, canvas totes, and wide-legged jeans returned across looks. Text appeared again and again in quiet placements. This consistency created flow.

Color followed the same idea. Black, off-white, washed red, and pale khaki set the tone. A few looks introduced brighter interruptions, a red bag or a necklace with beaded contrast.

Courtesy of UNDERCOVER

Print remained secondary. A camouflage floral showed up in tailored sets but didn’t lead the concept. It gave texture to the surface while letting the cut stay readable.

Silhouettes kept space. The cuts didn’t push for sharp outlines. They left room to move. Shoulders relaxed. Coats dropped low. Trousers extended with quiet volume. Nothing collapsed, but nothing stayed rigid. The clothes stayed responsive, made to shift, settle, and exist with ease.

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