David Koma’s third menswear collection questions what the modern man looks like, how he moves, and who he becomes. I LOVE DAVID, shown during Berlin Fashion Week, is part reference, part autobiography. It connects three cultural Davids, Beckham, Michelangelo’s statue, and Koma himself, into a single study on masculinity today.
Beckham’s influence shows up in the denim: light-wash, low-slung, distressed just enough to feel effortless. The standout outerwear, trench coats and smocks lined with vivid shearling, recalls that era when paparazzi-era menswear found its own swagger. There’s a sense of play in the “I LOVE DAVID” T-shirt, covered in rhinestones, cheekily romantic and knowingly self-referential.
Classical ideals take shape in fluid cuts. Draped T-shirts fall across the torso like sculpted folds. A crochet apron, equal parts domestic and provocative, becomes a statement piece in lace. Michelangelo’s David isn’t just quoted, it’s dissected, reframed, and reconstructed in fabric.
Koma’s own DNA grounds the collection. Signature garter details become hardware accents. Knitwear evolves through blown-up graphics. Tuxedo pieces arrive deconstructed, with panels of sheer tulle and plexi sequins creating unexpected movement. One of the collection’s highlights, a pair of surf shorts adorned with couture-level sequin embroidery, underscores how the label continues to push into expressive territory.
There’s also a softness. Hibiscus motifs reappear in embroidered brooches that sit easily on evening jackets or everyday looks. The color palette stays grounded but allows embellishment to take center stage. These aren’t loud pieces, they’re quietly complex.
With I LOVE DAVID, Koma doesn’t offer one version of masculinity. Instead, he presents an evolving draft: sculptural but relaxed, ironic yet sincere, beautiful without trying too hard. It’s a collection built on balance, and on a designer who knows how to move the conversation forward.
