Kiko Kostadinov returned to the minimal geometric forms of last season for Spring Summer 2027, then pushed them into a more physical language. The collection develops the label’s current direction through cut, construction and material research. Instead of building a narrative around characters or themes, the studio studies how garments take shape and how internal structure can change the way clothing sits on the body.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
The season draws from the work of Italian artist Agostino Bonalumi, whose monochromatic sculptural paintings explored pressure beneath the surface. Bonalumi placed structural elements under canvas and called the method extroflexion, using the term to describe the force created between a flat surface and the forms pushing through it. His paintings often curved, swelled and rippled, with light and shadow revealing what the eye could not immediately see.
Kostadinov applies that idea to menswear through construction. The collection reduces topstitching, trims and hardware. It avoids visible zippers and removes print, keeping fastenings hidden behind plackets or matched to the fabric. This restraint gives shape, texture and material the main role. Looks follow a tight system of textiles, colors and treatments, creating a controlled sequence of garments shaped by the same design logic.
Internal boning creates some of the collection’s strongest effects. It appears beneath blazers, articulated jackets, trousers and raw edge patchwork T-shirts, pushing the fabric into curved protrusions and rippled surfaces. The made in Japan suiting includes subtly padded blazers and trousers in silk wool, finished with dense stitching that creates deep seam like indentations. Structured jackets and shorts in polyurethane coated denim bring another material reference to Bonalumi’s vinyl tempera treated canvases.
The cuts look slimmer and sharper, with a more direct relationship to the frame. Long tunic like tops in draped jersey and silky nubuck add length, while oversized pyjama shirts with funnel necks bring volume into the collection. Lightweight knitted tops with tie fastenings introduce another shift in proportion without breaking the controlled rhythm.
A rhombus shape appears throughout the collection and changes with each use. It forms neck guards on slim wool coats and cropped blousons, stretches into the extended lapels of high neck blazers and informs asymmetric fastenings on trousers with radiating hems. A wall of Saori lamps by Kazuhide Takahama lit the show venue, echoing the same interest in curve, tension, form and light.
Accessories continue the study of geometry and reduced construction. Rectangular crossbody bags use single pieces of folded leather. Rhombus brooches and belts in contrasting widths add sharper accents, finished with burnished metallic buckles. The new Oakley collaboration updates the Terraforma model in colored acetate and adds angular visor like concept pieces handmade at Oakley’s California headquarters.
The Sargo lace up returns as loafers and mid cut leather boots. New slip ons use rubberlike leather overlays to create ridged debossing across the heel and toe box, drawing attention to the material’s plasticity. The Crocs collaboration also returns this season, updated as a lighter summer model with a new lacing system and mixed material uppers.
