IM MEN returned to Paris to present Fall Winter 2026.27, FORMLESS FORM, at the Collège des Bernardins. The 13th-century former school in the 5th arrondissement set a tone defined by transition rather than spectacle. The collection unfolded around moments that sit between states, where beginnings and endings share the same edge. From this position, IM MEN posed a precise idea: can clothing express the impulse to stand with intention through a single piece of fabric?
Instead of treating silhouette as a starting point, FORMLESS FORM builds outward from cloth itself. Fabric leads each decision, carrying weight, attitude, and purpose before shape enters the conversation. The garments resist fixed outlines, favoring construction methods that allow form to emerge through wear.
Material development anchors the collection. CLAY introduces a singular textile that unites a flat plane with a rib-like structure that reacts to heat. These opposing qualities coexist within one surface, producing sculptural volumes that shift as the body moves. The fabric stretches and settles naturally, supporting comfort while allowing the garment to navigate between everyday and formal settings without adjustment.
Color and process drive the DAWN series. Outerwear pieces undergo artisanal dyeing that creates gradual tonal movement across the cloth, recalling the subtle changes of early morning and fading light. Each garment receives individual cutting and sewing to preserve the integrity of the three-color gradation. Front panels layer like an oversized stole and cross at the body, allowing the coats to function in multiple configurations with controlled variation.
Construction defines the OVERLAP series. A chest flap and rain guard appear within a single piece of fabric, while gathered cuffs release to transform the coat into a poncho-like form. Shoulder epaulettes lift the cloth to generate alternate silhouettes. A cotton-nylon blend balances structure and comfort, with a wash finish that deepens surface texture. Relaxed trousers with generous volume extend the same logic into the lower half of the body.
GRADATION WOOL shifts focus to dye application. Each roll of fabric receives poured dye individually, producing distinct patterns and color variation. Cropped jackets and jumpsuits connect through side zippers, allowing the pieces to function as coordinated sets. Wide-leg trousers feature a thick belt reminiscent of a cummerbund, introducing a measured formality through proportion rather than tailoring convention.
Outerwear continues with RAF T, a padded series quilted from matte textured fabric. Long coats and jackets use corded insulation made from recycled polyester, trapping air to generate warmth through volume. The forms remain light in wear while presenting sculptural clarity through construction.
Traditional weaving informs KASURI. Four yarn types interact, including one dyed in three colors, creating linear patterns through deliberate misalignment. Jackets and asymmetrical trousers emerge from a single rectangular cloth, allowing drape to determine shape. Adjustable buttons enable the jacket to convert into a hood or stole, expanding its use through simple gestures.
FRONT BACK explores contrast through surface. Matte wool meets satin on the reverse side, revealed along collars and sleeves through continuous pattern construction. Sleeves detach to transform coats and jackets into long vests or draped elements. SELVEDGE WOOL introduces premium wool produced entirely in Bishu, Japan, with the IM MEN name woven into the selvedge to emphasize flow and structure. Accessories follow the same logic. LEATHER PLEATS translate garment forms into bags, while TO GO reinterprets the silhouette of a paper cup in leather.
Across FORMLESS FORM, IM MEN presents clothing as a measured expression of intent. Cloth, process, and construction guide each piece, allowing form to arise through restraint.
