Designer to watch Louis Gabriel Nouchi who founded his own label LGN shares a part of his world in an interview with our Fashion Features Director KATARINA DJORIC talking about his start in fashion, his favorite garments and producing luxury.
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How and when did you start designing?
I started drawing when I was very young, but I really started fashion when I started La Cambre school in Bruxelles in 2009.
How did you come to start your own label?
I always wanted to start my own label, however I knew I should acquire the needed experiences before, and to be certain of what I wanted to do. It’s also always about finding the right moment and the right people, things converging in the same direction, that’s when you know you need to do it now.
Which designer inspired you to pursue this career?
When it comes to my career I was since forever inspired by Yohji Yamamoto.
Who would you consider to be the most inspiring person in the fashion industry today?
That would have to be Michèle Lamy.
How important is individuality to you when it comes to creating garments?
It’s really important to be sincere in what you do. I think people can sense the sincerity in your work, you need to show that you do not joke with them. Your work should show you truly want to express an idea, as well as the quality! We all have references, however it’s a point of start to make them evolve.
Do you have particular pieces you enjoy designing and making more than others?
Pants. I think for menswear this are the most difficult pieces to do, and at the same time the most interesting, as it really gives a “silhouette“.
How do you find a balance between creativity and production?
I find it very stimulative! If it’s not productable, it’s the kind of a thing I was doing at school before, it’s too artisanale for a real production. I’m creating for people, to what is in the shop, what is the first contact you will have with the clothes. If it’s not as perfect as possible, you are not sincere if you only pretend to do luxury design.
What are you fascinated by at the moment and how does it feed into your work?
I’m quite old fashioned in a way. I love to work in my atelier or read books, which is the most inspiring for me. So I’m quite fascinated and horrified at the same time by social media now. It’s an amazing opportunity to connect with people, be direct to everyone, but at the same time it’s such a different « fake/real « reality! I find this balance quite amazing.
Tell us about your Spring Summer 2019 collection, what was the inspiration behind it, and do you have a favourite piece?
The SS19 collection is inspired by a book of Yukio Mishima, “The Gold Pavilion“, which is one of my favorite book from this amazing Japanese writer. It’s a true story of a Monk that burned down his own Temple, because he was too obsessed by the beauty of the temple. I tried to make this form of description as a form of ennoblement. There’s lot of aggressive treatments of fabrics, like beaching, dying, which is close to Japanese classic Estampe. Flowers are for the notion of temporary and “ephemera”.
My favorite pieces are the embroidery pieces, which is a new technic I’m developing since school, and it took me 3 years to be able to find a way to produce it!
Describe your design aesthetic in three words.
Elegant, comfortable, new grunge.
What advice would you give to young designers wanting to start their own label?
I’m not that old! [laughs] So I don’t think I can give advice to other designers. Everybody should follow their own way, and every experience, good and bad is priceless. It require a LOT of work, and being really organized. Also be sure of what you want to do, and keep working on it.
How do you see the future of LGN?
As long as possible!
Keep up with LGN and Louis Gabriel Nouchi on Instagram @louisgabrielnouchi
The January 2019 issue is out in print and digital – get your copy.