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ssstein SS27 Builds Menswear From Morning Light

Kiichiro Asakawa builds a quiet wardrobe through delicate tones, fabric research and relaxed precision.

ssstein SS27, Courtesy of ssstein

ssstein Spring Summer 2027 begins with a moment of stillness. Kiichiro Asakawa, founder and creative director of the Tokyo based brand, found the season’s starting point by a lakeside at daybreak. In the misted air, he imagined the first rays of sun layering color over him like a blank canvas. That memory later connected with Remembered Words, a series of watercolor paintings by Roni Horn, where accumulated colored dots evoked the same sensation of light and gradual emergence.

SPRING SUMMER 2027

From that experience, Asakawa developed a palette of light yellow, almond green, blush pink and powder blue, balanced by taupe, greige and reddish brown. The colors do not announce themselves loudly. They appear through fabric, texture and tone, creating a wardrobe shaped by morning optimism rather than surface brightness.

ssstein SS27, Courtesy of ssstein

The collection’s strength lies in Asakawa’s precise approach to nuance. He treats color as something inseparable from material. A light yellow nylon blouson, developed exclusively for ssstein by Olmetex, was garment washed to create a time worn tone, an airy hand feel and a puckered effect between parallel stitches. Deerskin receives a drum dye process instead of pigment dyeing, giving the material a deep, even color and supple touch.

Denim also plays an important role. Asakawa introduces a soft cotton and hemp denim, using ring dyed yarns for a relief like play of light and shadow, then applying an over dye to achieve muted tones. Among the plain colors, a grey toned check becomes the only pattern of the season. One version comes from the British mill Moon, with a wool linen composition that adds softness and subtle gradation.

ssstein SS27, Courtesy of ssstein

The season moves with a more classic and easygoing silhouette than usual, yet the construction carries quiet complexity. A mid length coat made from Pontoglio corduroy stands out as one of the key designs. The fabric was washed and tumble dried to emphasize the wale, while a boxy silhouette gains structure through darts on the sleeves. Asakawa keeps the shape relaxed without letting it fall flat.

Inside the garments, ssstein continues its focus on comfort and discreet refinement. Some pieces include silk rayon flannel linings, giving the collection a private sense of luxury that reveals itself through wear rather than immediate display.

Lightness defines several of the strongest looks. Washable silk appears in a softly shaded shacket, sitting between shirt and jacket, and can be layered with a matching shirt. A skipper shirt and easy pants in extremely soft linen offer another total look. The pants combine single pleats, an elastic and drawstring waist and a fly front, creating a hybrid shape that feels relaxed without becoming careless.

ssstein SS27, Courtesy of ssstein

Women’s silhouettes bring a more contemporary line. Extra wide full length pants feature side slits, while running shorts in super light wool gain sharpness through leather piping. These pieces extend the collection’s calm mood into forms with more movement and edge.

Accessories bring another level of craft. The hand stitched seven fold tie becomes the season’s key accessory, reflecting Asakawa’s interest in exceptional making. It pairs with shirts in matching super light wool from Canonico or Delfino, two Italian mills used for their fine materials.

For ssstein Spring Summer 2027, Asakawa creates a wardrobe rooted in classic shapes, gentle tones and technical sensitivity. The collection avoids excess and finds depth through surface, touch and proportion. Its optimism stays quiet, but it lingers through every washed fabric, softened color and carefully balanced silhouette.

 

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Written by Katarina Doric

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