Fashion brand Tolu Coker presented its Spring Summer 2024 Collection that is predominantly influenced by her exploration of matriarchal figures, her spiritual connection to her Yoruba heritage, and her desire to commemorate fragments of her family history through her ready-to-wear designs for this season.
SPRING SUMMER 2024 COLLECTIONS
As Spring Summer 2024 approaches, Coker’s fascination with the African diaspora is evident, from her choice of music to the intricate craftsmanship in her garments. She has a talent for breathing new life into clothing items, and in this collection, she skillfully engages in a nuanced conversation between family matriarchs in England and Nigeria. This dialogue is reflected in the craftsmanship and imagery integrated into the collection, drawn from her late father’s archive.
Coker’s collection pays tribute to various forms of empowerment and how women have translated their spirituality into their attire. Her grandmother serves as a significant reference point and is prominently featured in the collection. Her grandmother’s story, marrying a Christian man as a Muslim woman, challenges religious and cultural norms and has a profound impact on the family’s history.
The collection blends elements of a ‘Sunday’s Best’ aesthetic with classic Yoruba pieces. While the collection primarily uses neutral colors reminiscent of traditional Yoruba attire, Tolu Coker introduces vibrant shades of lemon-yellow, celestial-blue, and carmine to add vibrancy.
Sustainability is a cornerstone of the collection, with Coker’s talent for reinterpreting jacquard prints using preloved materials. Deconstructed denim with warping and wefts creates a tactile finish. Images of family matriarchs are featured prominently on heavy-weight denim, blending archival preservation with a modern twist. Coker’s use of imagery on denim aligns with Yoruba symbolism, particularly ‘Iranti,’ meaning ‘to remember,’ which is often associated with preserving memories after the passing of a loved one. Animal prints also make an appearance on clothing, paying homage to the spread of Yoruba culture throughout the diaspora.
The collection is aptly named ‘Irapada,’ which means ‘redemption’ in Yoruba. This title reflects Coker’s contemplation of the literal meaning of redemption and how it applies to clothing and restoration. Upcycled lace and denim woven from pre- and post-consumer waste breathe new life into these materials.
For Tolu Coker, the collection represents an opportunity to introduce new perspectives on Yoruba spirituality, free from negative stereotypes. She celebrates the flexibility of the new generation’s approach to spirituality and the significance of family ‘Orikis,’ which are appreciatively reflected in today’s musical landscape.
