Maison Margiela presented its Spring Summer 2026 collection, introducing design proposals shaped for everyday wear. The collection balanced new directions with archival evolutions, unfolding as a sequence of experiments centered on tailoring, construction, and material transformation.
Jackets carried ties, echoing the Maison Margiela blouse blanche worn by staff. Trousers dropped with exaggerated low crotches to extend the line. Leather, wool, and denim formed the base of this proposal, with denim chosen to emphasise its place in the house’s history. The tuxedo cutline expanded into leather jackets and trenches, where lapels could fold inward and disappear.
Layering came forward as another experiment. Long slip constructions were placed over tailored jackets, while shirts and trousers cut from lining fabrics enveloped entire suits. Oversized slips were taped into new shapes, pulling garments into unexpected proportions. Knitwear printed and embossed with paper created the illusion of peeling sixteenth-century wallpaper, an idea drawn from Artisanal 2025.
Evening pieces introduced permanence through fused accessories. Silk scarves became fixed to tuxedo shirts, jackets, and coats, as if always worn yet cut away to maintain function. Plasticisation returned as a central technique, transforming silk jackets into rainwear. Models wore Four Stitch mouthpieces throughout, enforcing the Maison’s anonymity by muting expression.
A live orchestra underscored the show, performed by sixty-one young musicians aged seven to fifteen from Romilly-sur-Seine. Gathered by the Orchestre à l’École association, which turns classrooms into orchestras, their participation framed the collection within a spirit of experimentation that extended beyond the garments.
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Maison Margiela’s Spring Summer 2026 show advanced ideas of construction and material play while revisiting archive signatures. From tuxedo tailoring in denim to plasticised jackets, the presentation treated familiar garments as active ground for reinvention.
