Acne Studios takes a loose grip on structure for its Spring Summer 2026 menswear collection. The season opens with a sense of motion, someone in transit, pulling on clothes quickly, not out of carelessness but instinct. There’s no aim for flawlessness. The collection builds from past ideas but shifts into something more relaxed, less defined by order and more by attitude.
Sportswear threads through every look, but never in predictable ways. It appears where you wouldn’t expect it, often worn out of context, or clashed with tailoring that bends traditional form. Vintage references hold the frame: pieces feel borrowed, inherited, or pulled from different decades. Some items seem stretched, others shrunken. Acne Studios favors what feels right in the moment, not what aligns with any fixed category.
Elongated cuts sit next to cropped shapes. Jogger-like trousers bring volume, while shorts end abruptly. Boot-cut pants carry influence from earlier eras, while slim-cut ‘1979’ jeans and the reintroduced ‘2010’ straight-leg version update Acne’s own denim archive.
Texture shifts as material changes. Leather sets land clean and direct, while latex-coated denim introduces stretch and shine. Jackets, whether biker or bomber, move between tight precision and oversized volume. The graphics vary. Some reference Japanese motifs. Others play tricks on the eye, like denim that tears away to reveal retro florals beneath.
The colour palette spans muted and vivid. Browns and beiges nod to classic tailoring, while flashes of electric blue, light yellow, and Acne Studios pink break from restraint. Fabric choices stay diverse. Checkered wool, soft silk knits, and plaid sit beside polished leather and coated denim. The layering never settles into one direction.
Accessories keep the eclectic rhythm. Aviator sunglasses recall ‘70s eyewear, while logo caps bring in a touch of handmade energy. Cowboy boots remain a staple. Loafers borrow from car shoes. Buckled leather sandals feel pieced together from cut straps. The Camero bag shows up in new materials and sizes, keeping its shape while shifting its finish.
Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios, describes this approach as part of a broader process. “We keep exploring and rebuilding the emblematic codes of the menswear wardrobe,” he says. “This time, it’s with a geeky, quietly confident attitude that beats perfection by far.”
