Sunflower clarified the next stage of its menswear language with its Florence debut, presenting Collection 17, No Soundtrack, as a live runway performance at Maggio Musicale Fiorentino during Pitti Uomo 110. The setting marked Sunflower’s first show in the city and placed the brand inside a wider international conversation through the CPHFW Special Project.
SPRING SUMMER 2027
Founder Ulrik Pedersen described the collection through a simple reference point: the direct force of a Keith Richards riff. That idea shaped the clothing, the casting and the presentation format. Sunflower kept its focus on denim, suits, leather, knitwear and daily pieces, with no unnecessary additions. Pedersen linked the season to real clothes, real people and real energy, all filtered through the brand’s long-running connection to rock music.
The presentation replaced a standard runway rhythm with the structure of a live act. Copenhagen-based musicians August Rosenbaum and Jakob Littauer created and performed the soundtrack in real time as the show unfolded. The cast moved through the performance with the music, giving the clothes a sense of movement and presence inside the space.
Sunflower also used casting to connect Copenhagen with Florence. The team looked for people with character and individuality, then selected part of the cast directly from the host city. Pedersen said the brand felt a strong connection with Florence during its visits and chose to cast there instead of Milan. That choice helped place the project inside the city and brought a local dimension to Sunflower’s first Florence presentation.
Collection 17 sharpens the shapes already familiar to the brand. Leather takes a leading role across the season, with slim cropped biker jackets styled with matching leather trousers or loose tailoring. Military-inspired leather parkas and full-length coats add a darker, more cinematic tone.
The tailoring follows a leaner, longer direction. Late 1990s-inspired double-breasted jackets appear with slim trousers cut with extra length. New silk suiting fabrics bring softness and movement to the lineup. Sunflower also introduces footwear for the first time through Italian-made pointed cowboy boots in polished black leather and python finishes. The boots continue the brand’s attitude through a new category.
Other key pieces include shiny silk shirts in apple green and pink, slim ribbed henleys, washed military fishtail parkas and soft cashmere V-necks. Danish artist Benny Brankovich developed the prints for the collection, adding another layer from Sunflower’s Copenhagen creative circle.
Pedersen sees Collection 17 as a new chapter for the brand. The foundation stays the same, yet the expression grows sharper and more defined. He compares that clarity to a good rock song: simple, direct and free of excess. Ulrik Pedersen and Alan Blond founded Sunflower in Copenhagen in 2018, building the brand around denim, tailoring, leather, knitwear and everyday pieces designed to gain character with wear.
Sunflower presented the show through a collaboration between Copenhagen Fashion Week, Pitti Immagine and the brand, within Copenhagen Fashion Week’s 20-year anniversary program. Antonio Cristaudo of Pitti Immagine pointed to Sunflower’s clear identity and consistent product approach. Copenhagen Fashion Week CEO Cecilie Thorsmark described the brand as independent, consistent and distinct, with a strong point of view ready for a wider international audience.
