
For SETCHU FW25 collection, creative director Satoshi Kuwata continues to explore the intersection of Japanese tradition and Savile Row craftsmanship. At the heart of his process lies the concept of reduction, where simplicity serves as the foundation for innovation. Inspired by the art of origami, Kuwata crafts garments that adapt and transform, encouraging wearers to discover new ways to interact with their clothing.
Each collection begins with a single square of paper, folded to create smaller sections and dynamic shapes. This season, Kuwata applies these principles to his designs, moving from two-dimensional ideas to three-dimensional creations. The garments, ranging from safari jackets to tailcoats, embrace versatility. Coats can be shortened, shirts and blazers feature extendable panels, and tailcoats can be reconfigured, offering endless styling possibilities.

SETCHU FW25 collection introduces an updating service, allowing clients to modify their existing pieces and extend their functionality. This innovative approach aligns with the brand’s philosophy of creating designs that evolve with the wearer.
The color palette for this collection focuses on black, white, and grey, evoking a sense of clarity and simplicity. A signature grey-and-black tartan adds texture, while a vibrant silk jacquard introduces a playful, unexpected element. Inspired by The Tale of Genji, this jacquard incorporates homoerotic motifs and octopus shapes drawn from Japanese manga.
The collection unfolds like a journey through the hours of a day, transitioning from morning to evening. Key pieces include bespoke garments created in collaboration with Davies & Sons, one of Savile Row’s oldest tailors. These designs, a morning suit, a double-breasted blue blazer with gold buttons, and a tail jacket, combine classic tailoring techniques with Kuwata’s origami-inspired approach.

The presentation of the collection mirrors its thoughtful construction. Dense, tactile fabrics complement gender-neutral designs, inviting wearers to engage with the garments in their own way. Kuwata’s work breaks down traditional boundaries, offering a wardrobe that feels inclusive, functional, and modern.
Beyond the runway, the presentation extended to an immersive display on the first floor. Tatami-lined cabinets held elements of Kuwata’s creative process, from his passion for fishing to the precise folding techniques applied to garments, gloves, and napkins. These nineteen cabinets offered a deeper understanding of SETCHU philosophy, presenting a mix of cultural influences and personal storytelling.

Creative direction: Carina Frey and Stefanie Barth
Stylist: Tanya Jones
Makeup: Thomas de Klyuwer
Hair: Soichi Inagaki
Choreographer: Michael John Harper
Music: Paolo Tocci
Film: Massimiliano Bomba
Photography: Patrick Bienert
Text: Angelo Flaccavento
PR: Nathalie Ours
Show production: Gainsbury and Whiting
Coordination: Leila Palermo
Special advisor: Fabrice Paineau