On June 26, 2025, at the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain in Paris, IM MEN introduced its Spring Summer 2026 collection DANCING TEXTURE. Jean Nouvel’s architectural structure set the stage for a collection built on physicality, rhythm, and material depth. The presentation brought together textiles and motion, guided by an extended engagement with the ceramic works of Shoji Kamoda.
Kamoda, a pioneering figure in Japanese ceramics until his passing in 1983, shaped his practice through form, repetition, and contrast. His works served as a catalyst for IM MEN’s design team, who approached the idea of wearing his surfaces, transforming glaze, shape, and texture into garments. The designers moved beyond replication, treating fabric as a medium for tactile interpretation.
One of the key explorations appears in the UROKOMON series, where the designers reference scale-like patterns from Kamoda’s ceramic motifs. They applied a technique known as the bonding opal process, layering cotton and precision-printing onto textiles. In the final wash, parts of the top layer dissolve, exposing the printed base and revealing a depth similar to that of fired ceramic glaze.
The GINTO FLAT garments reference a silver-glazed bowl, known for its metallic finish and square silhouette. Silver foil was applied directly onto the fabric’s folded shape, creating areas of varied sheen. Rather than forcing structure, the designers shaped garments with a soft, curved form that echoes the subtle contours of the original bowl.
In RESILIENCE, the studio used a polyester textile with a textured surface and added vibrant color through garment dyeing. Tape detailing supports both function and form, offering adaptability in features like pockets and pant hems. For FISHING NET NYLON, the team repurposed fishing nets sourced in Japan, developing a green-toned, lightweight material that forms the base of a convertible coat. A hood zips down into a dramatic collar, and a rain shield extends across the back.
The KAIYU series draws from Kamoda’s pale celadon glazes and the raw clay contrast found in some of his pieces. Designers printed the garments while laid flat, layering pigments in mirrored halves. A combination of glossy binders and matte powders recreated the ceramic’s visual texture, giving the garments a dual finish.
For ENGRAVE, IM MEN took inspiration from Kamoda’s “Waved Patterns” series, where carved lines become part of the object’s structure. Using a jacquard loom and multicolored threads, they wove patterns that expand into three-dimensional forms when heat-shrunk. The fabric transforms as the garments, pants with suspenders, a coat, and a blouson, zip shut, shifting from flat pieces to sculptural wearables.
The EARTH series references a vermilion ceramic jar painted to expose the clay beneath. To recreate this layered surface, the designers used five types of yarn in the weft, including boucle and metallics, while the warp combined black and white threads. Through a specialized weave, the inside appears gray. Zippers on the sleeves and body create structure, and wave-like patterning shapes the silhouette.
The show closed with a new footwear collaboration titled ISSEY MIYAKE FOOT HYPER TAPING, developed by MIYAKE DESIGN STUDIO and ASICS SportStyle. Taking ASICS’ signature side stripes, originally designed to improve structural support MDS reworked them into bands that wrap the foot like athletic taping. This collaboration builds on MDS’s continued exploration of movement and fit, combining functional technology with design experimentation.
