Rei Kawakubo returns with another unexpected take on masculinity for Spring 2026, twisting the familiar codes of the suit into something far more unstable, and far more interesting. Shown in a narrow, stifling space that matched the tension of the clothes, the latest Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection leaned into distortion and contradiction.
SPRING SUMMER 2026
Kawakubo’s declaration, “no suits, but suits,” was realized in sculptural jackets, cropped tuxedos, and padded tailoring that carried volume where it wasn’t expected. Lapels stood out in padded white contrasts against black bases, giving cropped tuxedo jackets an exaggerated formality. The silhouette shifted from sharp to swollen, from traditional to surreal. Jackets bulged at the hips or sleeves, distorting the classic lines of menswear into something altogether unfamiliar.
This collection reintroduced motifs we’ve seen before in the Homme Plus universe, skirt-like shorts, banded volumes, ruffled pant slits, but they arrived with different timing and weight. Skinny trousers, a base in most looks, now featured zips that opened to reveal frills, creating kinetic movement. These elements weren’t retro, ironic, or nostalgic, they were deployed with full sincerity, pushing against the limits of what tailoring can hold.
The casting and styling drove the mood deeper into Kawakubo’s signature surrealism. Models wore thick, long black wigs that masked their identities and gave the runway the air of a ritual procession. Multi-brimmed newsboy caps sat atop some looks like props from another timeline. The effect was theatrical, but it wasn’t performance for the sake of drama, it was a kind of anti-fashion protest, masked in fashion’s own language.
While past Comme collections have sparked trends, Spring 2026 feels less predictive and more introspective. These aren’t clothes made for viral moments. They’re experiments in proportion, weight, and volume, built for the body but resisting ease.
Kawakubo’s work here isn’t about reinventing the suit for the modern man. It’s about dismantling the idea that a man needs a suit at all. Through exaggeration, distortion, and refusal, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus continues to be one of the few labels still asking: what else can menswear be?
