Dhruv Kapoor Spring Summer 2026 collection, Foundations & Futures, begins with pieces traditionally kept in private spaces, underwear, vests, and petticoats. Long linked to modesty, stigma, or excess, these garments move into the open as outerwear. Kapoor reframes them as expressions of empowerment and defiance, turning what was once hidden into a visible force.
This opening sets the tone for the season’s central idea: compressing past, present, and future into clothing. Kapoor mines memory and surroundings, retrieving references to reinterpret them through design. Each piece carries time’s weight yet resists historical confinement. By making visible what tradition pushed into obscurity, Kapoor builds a foundation that evolves into a future.
Traditional Indian garments move through this same process of reclamation. The kurta and the bandhgala jacket arrive reshaped, twisted, and expanded. Kapoor distorts their familiar outlines, pushing them into new proportions that align with contemporary desire.
Color drives the collection’s metaphysical layer. Kapoor draws from planetary hues prescribed in the Vedas, using them as coordinates that connect body and universe. These shades act as rituals, offering intimacy, energy, and protection. More than surface decoration, the palette suggests clothing can carry memory and extend into cosmic dimensions.
Kapoor approaches each garment as an architectural frame. Rather than treating clothes as decoration, he exposes the scaffolds of identity and desire that culture often tries to conceal. The modest becomes monumental, gender dissolves into fluid shapes, and what once remained hidden becomes a structure of visibility.
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Collaborations amplify the show’s atmosphere. Kapoor works with Paloceras, the Helsinki eyewear label recognized for sculptural frames that alter perception, and Aïsha Devi, the Swiss-Nepali artist celebrated for immersive sound design. Paloceras extends the visual language with pieces that distort vision, while Devi contributes an exclusive soundtrack that intensifies the runway’s emotion. Together, they heighten the collection into a field of both sight and sound.
